The most amazing natural wonder in Brazil.

That’s right, I’ve just gone right ahead and put a full stop at the end of today’s post title. No question marks today, it’s Friday, I’m feeling tough and I’m going to make a statement of fact. Lençois Maranhenses is the most amazing natural wonder in Brazil.

Before I tell you anything about it, I’m doing to do a quick backtrack regarding my tough Friday stance in that opening paragraph. I actually haven’t seen very much of Brazil – I’ve seen some of the Amazon region, a little of the north-eastern states of Maranhão and Ceara and a little of Rio state. I haven’t been down south to all those amazing beaches everyone tells me about. I haven’t been to the waterfalls of Iguaçu (and yes, I know they’re amazing). So I will listen if you tell me there is somewhere more spectacular (in fact I’d love to hear your opinions/suggestions).

But seriously, take a look at this:

Lençois Maranhenses, Maranhão, Brazil

Situated in Brazil’s poorest state, Maranhão, the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park covers 270 km² and lies on the coast of north-east Brazil. Situated next to the sea, these huge white sand dunes are dotted with rain-fed, fresh water lagoons.

 

I came into Brazil from Colombia in the north and sent the girl who went on to become my wife an email, asking if she had any advice on places I should visit on my way down to Rio. She replied with a massive list of suggestions, but the one that really stood out was Lençois. And in particular it was this picture that did it:

 

When I saw this image (from BrasilTurismo blog) I could hardly believe it. I had never heard of, nor seen, anything like this before (and I had seen some pretty amazing sights during my year of travelling). I decided I had to see this place with my own eyes.

 

I won’t bore you with the fine detail, but I will say that it was not an easy trip. We had to get from the state capital of São Luís to the small town of Barreirinhas. It was during a very busy time (there was a festival going on) and as we didn’t want to pay a huge fee for a tour, we had to be resourceful.

Once in Barreirinhas things were easier. We met a very chilled out guy/guide who took us out to the dunes with a whole bunch of tourists on a large open bus. I remember being a bit disappointed about being with all these tourists (tourists – urgh! Of course I’m a traveller, never a tourist, right?).

But I soon found out that we were only with these people for the transport. Once we were off the bus, they all went one way and my travel pal, the guide and I went off in another direction – we didn’t see another soul until nightfall when we reached our accomodation.

When is a desert not a desert? When it is right on the edge of the Amazon basin and receives plenty of rain!

The guide would walk out ahead, staying just within sight on the horizon. Every hour or so he would stop and wait for us to catch up. Usually we would find him next to a nice looking pool. We’d have a swim in the warm, fresh water, perhaps have a quick bite to eat and then carry on.

An amazing environment, but I wouldn’t advise going in alone (not sure if that’s even allowed). It would be very easy to get lost.

 

It was a strange place. I was very content to walk along for hours without talking, just taking in the incredible landscapes. After a while I stopped expecting to see anyone, I lost all sense of time and location. It was almost hypnotic.

 

Lençois Maranhenses, Maranhão, Brazil

Although it isn’t technically a desert, it felt far more like one than most deserts I have been to. For a start, it had proper sand dunes with those ripply patterns. All the real deserts I’ve been to seem to be full of rocks – very disappointing!

 

It is a truly amazing place and was an unforgettable experience. Sure, it is far easier to visit Iguaçu Falls or the beaches of Santa Catarina, but you will get something very special here in return for the extra effort.

 

Lençois Maranhenses, Maranhão, Brazil

Breathtakingly beautiful…

 

Some things to bear in mind: the rain-water lagoons dry up at certain times of year – they say it is best to go between July and September (I went in June and there was plenty). Also, if you have a phobia of crabs, ask your guide not to take you over to the coastal side of the park:

Apparently the term is Kabourophobia – if you have it, you’ll want to avoid the coastal side of the park…
14 replies
  1. Anonymous
    Anonymous says:

    wowsers! seriously gutted I havent seen this : ( is there not something even remotely similar in another south american country I can visit whilst I am here? Citygirltravels

    Reply
  2. Vim
    Vim says:

    Though it was second pic that did the trick for you, i think its gonna be the last pic that's gonna do the trick for me.

    What a wonderful place. It looks like one of those Off the beaten trail kinds of place. Untouched and magnifique! +10 for the post and pics.

    P.S: Oh ya, Your posts have offcially gotten me addicted to reading blogs especially the ones you follow and revive my own! :)

    Reply
  3. Tom Le Mesurier
    Tom Le Mesurier says:

    Hey CityGirlTravels! If there is somewhere similar, I don't know it! But there are plenty of sights and experiences waiting for you on the route you're taking…. :)

    Reply
  4. Tom Le Mesurier
    Tom Le Mesurier says:

    Hia Vim – you know I only follow the best blogs! :D That's great that you're going to restart your blog – I just had a quick glance and see there are 2 posts waiting to be read. This is what Friday afternoons were made for!!

    Regarding Lençois, you are right, the 'off the beaten track' quality means that only people who *really* want to go, make it. No litter, no nightclubs, just peace and tranquilidade :)

    Reply
  5. Alex
    Alex says:

    This is so weird, because I'm about to write a post about the "places I need to see before I die….Brasil edition" and this was going to be number one on my list! Keep an eye out for it as I probably will post it later.

    But my dear lord, it is freaking beautiful!!! Unlike anything anywhere else in the world!!!

    Thanks for showing this!

    Abracos,
    Alex

    Reply
  6. Tom Le Mesurier
    Tom Le Mesurier says:

    @Anita & Alex: you guys should go if you get the chance. Seriously, I remember by the time I got to Brazil I was kind of tired of travelling. I felt like I had seen all the beaches and waterfalls and forests and rivers and mountains there were to see. Then this place knocked me off my feet!

    Reply
  7. The Gritty Poet
    The Gritty Poet says:

    Hi Tom,

    Do you remember where you stayed during your visit to Lençois Maranhenses?

    My small contribution follows.
    http://travel.nytimes.com/2004/11/07/travel/07catarina.html?pagewanted=print&position=

    The region is also good for whale watching
    http://gobrazil.about.com/od/brazilianwildlife/a/rightwhalesc.htm

    During summer it get's kind of packed, many people from South Brazil's neighboring countries show up. I find ot to be loud so I prefer visiting right before summer ( from November to mid December). Oh, Praia do Rosa really is the cutest little beach town.

    Reply
  8. the gritty poet
    the gritty poet says:

    Seems like Gets is getting all apostropheish in my previous comment. Sorry about that, it has been a long week.

    Reply
  9. Tom Le Mesurier
    Tom Le Mesurier says:

    Ha ha! Gritty, it happen's to the best of us ;)

    I've actually had my eye on Santa Catarina for a while now, though my wife has been trying to dissuade me because, in her words, the women are just far too beautiful. I have to say that isn't the best way to discourage me from visiting a place!

    I stayed in a very cheap, crappy hostel in Barreirinhas (remember that post with the dodgy plug? That was the place) so I don't think that would be much of a recommendation!

    Reply
  10. Monika
    Monika says:

    Hello Tom. If you find jalapeños in Rio…..which I am not sure you will…..the best way to go about it is to either chop them as fine as you can and then squeeze out all the liquid or if you have juicer, juice the jalapeño and use the pulp! I know, both are time consuming, but well worth it! Yum!

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      Hmmmm, interesting Monika. I haven’t seen jalapeños and the habaneros I’m growing on my windowsill are probably too strong for this. However, I think this could be a job for the trusty dedos de moça that are readily available here in Brazil. Thanks for the tips!

      Reply

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