What is it?
The street markets of Rio offer a wonderful assault on the senses. Soak up the sights, sounds and smells as you wander the rows of stalls selling everything from fruits, spices and fish through to artisanal cachaça, cheese and don’t forget the amazing street food!
The market traders are friendly and often hilarious as they call out their offers and chat to customers and neighbouring stall holders. There are no hard-sell tactics here – feel free to browse the stalls, ask questions and take photos. Many of the traders will offer samples of their produce. Brazilian fruit is amazing – try everything!
- Skip breakfast and turn up with an appetite! If you’re feeling a little worse for wear after your Saturday night, then pick up the ultimate hangover cure – a delicious crispy pastel and glass of sweet caldo de cana (sugar cane juice). More details…
- If you’re still hungry then check out the tapioca stalls. Whether you like sweet or savoury, these delicious pancake-like snacks will hit the spot. Click here to see tapioca being made on one of the stalls.
- Check out the weird and wonderful exotic fruits – keep an eye out for jabuticaba, cupuaçu and my favourite cacau.
- If you’re staying somewhere with cooking facilities (i.e. not in a hotel) then the fish stalls are highly recommended. The seafood is ultra fresh and the guys working the stall will expertly prepare whatever takes your fancy.
- Small bands often show up and provide a little added entertainment. In the months leading up to carnival you may even see the Glória Bloco band getting in some extra practice.
Where and When?
My favourite market runs on Sunday mornings in Glória, a neighbourhood bordering Lapa and Santa Teresa. At the crack of dawn, dozens of market vendors set up their stalls along Avenida Augusto Severo, which is closed to traffic for the duration of the market. The market officially closes at 13:00, though in practice it often overruns a little. If you can’t make Sunday then check the “Alternatives” section below for other locations and days of the week.
View Glória street market in a larger map
How to get there?
Glória Metro station is right next to the market and just 8 stops from General Osório in Ipanema. Rio’s metro system is safe, cheap (R$3.20 per journey) and easy to use. If you prefer to take a cab, it will cost you around R$20-40 depending on traffic and your starting location – just ask your driver for Feira da Glória (sounds like ‘FAY-ra da gloria’).
The same market traders who set up in Glória on Sunday morning, go to other locations during the week. The weekday markets might not have quite the same lively atmosphere and energy of the one on Sunday, but these alternatives have all the same produce and are definitely worth visiting. To find the locations of street markets running on any day of the week, go to the Onde Tem Feira website for Rio and then select the day of the week you’re interested in (Segunda = Monday, Terça = Tuesday, etc).
Many thanks to Anna from MissCheck-in.com for the use of her wonderful pictures (her’s are the ones without the the EatRio watermark.