I know this iconic Brazilian dish is not easy to pronounce if you’re just reading it off the page/screen, so let’s see if I can help. Try this: ‘fayzh-WAH-da’ – got it? Easy right?
Feijoada is a heavy, satisfying stew of black beans, various cuts of pork, cured beef and sliced sausage. It’s traditionally served with rice, farofa (a toasted cassava flour which you sprinkle over the top), finely shredded bitter greens, crispy pork rinds and, often though not always, slices of orange. The bitter greens and the orange help to cut through all the richness of the beans and meat.
There’s a popular story (often presented as fact) that this dish was invented by slaves from the beans and off-cuts given to them by their owners. The origins of the story are doubtful, but good luck trying to convince any Brazilians that it’s a myth (you’ll probably be deported).
Traditionally the dish is served on Saturdays (and also on Fridays for the working lunch crowd), but there are a few places that serve it every day of the week. Here are some of our favourites.
Academia da Cachaça
Located in Leblon, not far from Rua Dias Ferreira (a street filled with lots of fancy restaurants suited to the neighbourhood’s affluent residents), Academia da Cachaça serves feijoada every day of the week. This is a really nice one and as a bonus they have a huge selection of cachaças. We are also big fans of their excellent ‘Caipira Acadêmica’, a delicious caipirinha made with the limão galego lime.
Bar do Momo
For Rio-based foodies who don’t restrict themselves to Zona Sul, Bar do Momo is legendary (to see what all the fuss is about, search Instagram for the hashtag #querserfelizvempromomo). On Fridays and Saturdays they offer up one of the best feijoadas you could ever ask for – highly recommended (don’t miss out on their sublime torresmo (pork rinds/scratchings).
Botequim do Jóia
How I love this scratchy old bar, hidden down a side-street in Centro. This is a proper old locals’ place, opened in 1909 and showing every year of its age in the nicest possible way. Run by the widow of the original owner, this is one of those places that makes me happy to live in this wonderful city (you can keep your swanky hotel rooftop bars in Ipanema!).
On Fridays only, their excellent feijoada is served by the lovely staff at this gem of a place. This is one occasion where you’ll need to be fairly punctual – it opens at 12 noon and closes at 3.30pm. Miss it and you’ll have to try again next week. On my most recent visit (November 2024) there was some lovely live chorinho being performed right there in the bar.
