The Bread Man Alarm Clock

As I mentioned in a previous post, my first eight months in Rio were spent living in my mother-in-law’s house in Alto Gávea, a wealthy neighbourhood in Rio’s Zona Sul. Although nearby Baixo Gávea can get quite rowdy (especially on Thursday and Sunday nights) the area around my mother-in-law’s house is more residential and tends to be quite peaceful. 
 
So I got a shock when we moved to Santa Teresa – my ears were bombarded by a myriad of different noises. There are the sounds of concerts which pump up from nearby Lapa; on Sundays we hear Baile Funk [BUY-lee funk] parties from the nearby Morro do Santo Amaro favela; on my way home from work I pass the International Foundation of Angolan Capoeira and often hear their lovely music and singing. 



Outside my window I hear the tiny monkeys that squeal to each other as they run along the telephone lines in the street. 

 

These tiny monkeys, micos, scamper along the cables, constantly calling to each other with squeals so high-pitched they are only just audible.


 

And then there is the snippet of Beethoven’s Für Elise that is blasted out by the guy who drives round in the morning selling gas cannisters for cooking. I have to confess I find this one rather annoying as, having heard it once during breakfast, I go on to spend the rest of the day humming it back to myself. For me this is undoubtedly what the Germans rather splendidly call an Ohrwurm,an Earworm or (I just found this one on Wikipedia) “tune wedgy”.


And how could I forget (deep breath) the dogs? Have I told you about the dogs that start their enthusiastic barking at around 5:30 am? Yes, yes I have, OK I won’t go on about it. 


But there is one sound that stands out from all the others. Although it wakes me up almost every morning, I have come to like it. In fact, when I manage to sleep through the dog chorus, it acts as a rather wonderful alarm clock for me. First have a listen to the sound:

 

This is the sound of the guy who sells bread (I imaginatively refer to him as The Bread Man). Each morning he wakes up super-early, collects a couple of hundred bread rolls and puts them in his massive basket. He then carries the basket on his back and walks up the very steep hill on which we live. And as he walks, he calls out to let people know he’s coming. I think his call could be roughly translated as “Hey! Baker!”


He is well known in the neighbourhood and I often see old ladies pop out to pick up some bread and have a chat. I enjoy watching his customers who live on upper floors – they lower down their money in a basket on a rope and then lift up the bread that he puts in. It is a slick operation and the speed with which the basket goes up and down makes it fun to watch – I will try to get some video for a future post. 

Ô-Paaaadddddeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeiiiiiiiro – here comes the bread man!



Is there an official term for shouting to announce the product you’re selling? Until someone puts me right, I’m going to go with ‘Sales Cry‘ Street Cry. Street cries like this are very common here in Brazil – many of the beach vendors selling beer, açai and other snacks, have their own trademark call. Next time I go to the beach I will see if I can record a selection as some of them are great. 


Anyway, I think the Bread Man has a great street cry – distinctive but not annoying. And (perhaps this will sound mean) I like watching him slowly make his way up the hill with that big load of bread on his back. He’s always there, rain or shine, and it’s an impressive sight. I often find myself wondering about him. How early does he have to get up in the morning? How long has he been doing this? Does he enjoy his work?


City dwellers will often see the same people every day of their life without knowing a thing about them and I’m sure we’re missing out on many interesting stories and friendly encounters. So this morning I finally banished the reticent Londoner in me and decided to find out a little more. In my next post I’ll tell you how it went…

7 replies
  1. The Gritty Poet
    The Gritty Poet says:

    Gas canister dude playing Beethoven instead of blasting crap Sertanejo music. The man deserves a medal.
    Btw have you ever seen a monkey electrocuted?

    Reply
  2. Tom Le
    Tom Le says:

    I've heard bad things about Sertanejo – is that what your guy plays? Seriously though, this is NOT the way Beethoven meant it to sound – it's just the first 9 notes and it sounds like it's being played on a car alarm!

    No fried monkeys seen yet – they seem to know what they're doing! :)

    Reply
  3. The Gritty Poet
    The Gritty Poet says:

    Your guy and my guy need to upgrade their music selection. I'd rather listen to a monkey being electrocuted than the stuff I am currently exposed to. Humn, perhaps faulty cables, a monkey innocently playing on them, the musical gas chamber truck passing underneath…
    Only kidding. This is between the gas dude and me, the monkey need not suffer.

    Reply
  4. Adam
    Adam says:

    My guy is the king of street noise. He's the gas delivery dude and he shouts "heyyyy" while doing a distinctive, almost continuous, 4-5 beeps on the horn…while playing the jingle ("minasgás chegouuuuu") on repeat. Every morning, every afternoon. One would suffice given everyone knows each sound separately. Plus there's the fact that he has a schedule, which is marker number 4.

    In a country where so many little shops deliver, why can't this dude? Anyways, I wrote about the sounds I often hear here

    http://streetsmartbrazil.com/blog/20110805/brazil-where-sounds-abound

    PS – some call sertanejo, sertanojo (nojo being disgust)

    Reply
  5. Tom Le
    Tom Le says:

    Hi Adam, that's a great post – I forgot to mention the football cheers that echo around the city when Flamengo score!

    And wouldn't you know it, having said The Bread Man comes round everyday, he's disappeared this week, meaning I haven't been able to finish off the interview we started last week – hope I haven't scared him off or there'll be some hungry housewives wondering what happened!

    Reply

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