How to avoid looking like a gringo

The word gringo is an interesting one. It exists in both Spanish and Portuguese and generally means foreigner. In some places it refers specifically to someone from the US, but in Brazil it basically means any foreigner. That said, it isn’t an exact science – someone from say, Japan, for instance can be called a gringo (gringa for a female), but in general the term fits better for Europeans and North Americans.

The origins of the word are also open to some discussion. Several Brazilians have told me that the term evolved from the English expression Green Go (this being either a call for foreign armies, generally dressed in green, to leave the country, or an observation that when foreigners arrived in the Amazon, the green (trees and other valuables) was taken away.

The reality is far more likely to be that it came from the Spanish word for Greek, Griego – someone speaking a language that isn’t understood. As in “it’s all Greek to me”.

 

gringo shirt

It’s like you’re walking around with a sign that says gringo…

 

But what is the real meaning behind this word? Should you be offended if someone calls you a gringo? Is it a sign of falta de respeito (lack of respect)?

All Brazilians that I’ve spoken to about this have assured me that it is not a pejorative term. “No!” they cry with a smile on their face and their arms spread wide, “We just use this term to mean a foreigner. Actually we are being friendly, affectionate even!”.

Well I’m not sure it’s a simple as that! Sure, Brazilians often use the term in a perfectly friendly way and it certainly doesn’t have to be rude. But I have heard it used plenty of times to denote scorn or disdain. Not exactly nasty, but in a way that groups foreigners together as say stupid or naive. Put it this way – my wife doesn’t call me a gringo (not to my face anyway!), but when we recently saw a tourist walking in Copacabana with an iPad in one hand and talking on his iPhone, she said “Even I’d rob that silly gringo!” (in case there’s any confusion here, she was saying that the guy was just asking to be robbed – she hardly ever robs people herself…).

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not being hyper-sensitive here. I don’t run home, slam the door and cry into my pillow when someone calls me gringo (well, not every time!). In the vast majority of cases people are being friendly when they use the term and anyway, you can tell if they’re being nasty from the tone of voice they use.

But there are times when perhaps you wouldn’t want to stand out as a gringo – certainly it could make you a more juicy (tempting) target if a genuine robber happened to spot you. So, here are some tips to help you blend in with the locals while you’re in Rio.

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1. Leave the bottle of water at home

This is a constant source of bemusement to my wife. “Why do you gringos always carry those big bottles of water around?” she asks. This is the classic backpacker look – I remember in my travelling days I would always have a bottle of water. You spend one 12 hour bus trip without water and after that you learn your lesson and make sure you always have some water to hand. But if you want to blend in here in Rio then leave your water back at the hostel or at least in your bag.

Drinking Water

What a gringo…

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2. Don’t take a towel to the beach

Another classic gringo move. Brazilians don’t take towels to the beach! Pickup a canga (those thin sarongs they sell on the beach). Despite being a fan of Hitch Hiker’s Guide to the Galaxy (I do [did!], after all, work in IT), I have to say that cangas are far better than towels. They are lighter, more versatile, pack down smaller, dry more quickly and you can brush the sand off with a quick shake. AND, they don’t make you look like a gringo when you go to the beach.

Classic copacabana canga

One of the most popular Canga designs, mimicking the iconic pavement designs of Copacabana.

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3. Don’t wear trainers to the beach

Cultural terminology disambiguation #1: Trainers (UK) == Sneakers (US) == Tenis (Brazil).

Cultural terminology disambiguation #2: Flip-flops (US&UK) == Thongs (Australia) == Chinelos (Brazil).

This is another one that gets my wife shaking her head in wonder. If you are going to the beach, just wear flip-flops! You will definitely see Brazilians wearing trainers next to the beach, perhaps if they’re going for a stroll in the area. But a pair of stinky rolled up socks sitting inside a pair of Adidas in the sand? They belong to a gringo!

 

trainers in the sand

Que isso? – sneakers in the sand?

 

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OK, so those are my observations. Perhaps some of my Brazilian readers have some other tips?

sombrero in Mexico

During my time in Mexico I discovered that the secret to blending in with the locals is to ensure you research local customs and clothing thoroughly…

 

Of course it doesn’t really matter if you end up looking like a tourist/gringo/visitor! Contrary to popular belief, Rio is not full of robbers just waiting to pounce on unsuspecting gringos (there are some though). But maybe you don’t want to look like a local! We saw a couple of guys at the beach yesterday who were wearing trainers, sitting on towels, drinking from 2 litre bottles of water and (bonus points!) wearing $100 fancy headphones. But they seemed to be enjoying themselves and probably didn’t care that they looked ridiculous!

 

Beer Canga Beach

A Canga and a beer on the beach – how the locals do it!

 

 

32 replies
  1. Ed
    Ed says:

    Loving the canga. I’ve had one for a while now. Get a few strange looks at the Dulwich leisure centre (although it could be related to something else?!). Can’t understand why anyone would have a stinky dirty wet towel. Gringos! But hang on a minute, nobody gets between me n my 3 stripes. As Run DMC say “My Adidas cuts the sand in a foreign land. With mic in hand I cold took command” So I guess I’m signing up to full Brazinglish

    Reply
  2. Will Jackson
    Will Jackson says:

    Gringo definitely has a pejorative aspect, as evidenced by the fact it’s almost always preceded by “stupid”.

    BTW I love the tree t-shirt dude. You still wear it? I remember that particular photoshoot got a bit out of hand.

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      Ah, the tree t-shirt – it was a good shirt wasn’t it? ! It was eventually put into retirement after a solid service during my travelling days.

      Reply
  3. Rose
    Rose says:

    Oi Tom!
    Muitas gringas não usam os biquínis brasileiros por serem muito pequenos( você acredita nisso?) , e grande parte dos gringos não usam SUNGAS nas praias brasileiras, mas sim calção- o que é uma pena na minha opinião!

    Essas coisas não ajudam vocês gringos a se misturarem!

    Espero de coração que ninguém fique triste e chateado em ser chamado de gringo, na maior parte das vezes não é usado para ofender realmente. Além disso, as pessoas sensíveis aqui somos nós, os brasileiros! rs rs
    Abs!

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      Ha ha – muito bom Rose!

      É interessante, eu gosto dos biquínis brasileiros, mas não gosto muito das sungas – estranho né? ;)

      Quero misturar, mas não é possivel para eu parecer bem com uma sunga! Olha – posso ser sensível também! :D

      Abraço!

      Reply
  4. Alex
    Alex says:

    Great tips!!!! Thanks

    I should write a post about how not to be spotted as a Brazilian, because I’m known as being Brazilian at school. I don’t refute the claims, but also don’t claim them. It’s makes it seem like I’m a little less of a psycho for being Brazil crazy and speaking Portuguese like a freak.

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      Ha ha! It sounds like you won’t need to worry about seeming like a gringo Alex! You’ll have to make sure you know your way around town though, because if people think you’re a local then they’ll be asking for directions! (I was very proud the first time someone asked me for directions… :) )

      Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      I can sense the conflict here Gritty. In an ideal world there would be an attempted robbery of said socks and trainers to boost your footwear-esteem.

      Interestingly, I once left a jar of Marmite next to an open window for an entire afternoon and no one even touched it. Clearly things aren’t that bad here… ;)

      Reply
  5. susan
    susan says:

    I know this comment is totally missing the point of this article but.. why does everyone around the world think Americans say “sneakers”? I have never said that! heheh I (and everyone else I know) call them tennis shoes!

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      What? Next you’ll be telling me you don’t all wear cowboy hats! ;)

      Heh heh – sorry Susan! Doesn’t anyone call them sneakers then? Maybe it was an 80s thing – I have been to the states a couple of times in the last decade, but if I’m being honest, I probably got most of my information from films such as The Goonies, The Breakfast Club and Uncle Buck… (just a random selection there!).

      So you even call shoes that are designed for say, basketball, tennis shoes?

      Reply
      • susan
        susan says:

        bahahahahaha!! You’re funny! Goonies, Breakfast club!? Out of my era! I think people maybe used to call them sneakers but as far as I know, no one does now!

        Okay, so here’s the breakdown according to my midwestern USA English (don’t make fun!):
        shoes for basketball = basketball shoes
        any shoes that you walk in/go out in/everyday “sneakers” = Tennis shoes
        Special running shoes that are sleek and mesh = running shoes
        soccer shoes/baseball shoes/football shoes = cleats

        Does that more or less line up with British English? I honestly love listening to British English, it sounds so archaic! Whilst? Indeed, pip pip! Like come on, what are you guys from? The 1800s?? :P (joking!)

        By the way, sorry I didn’t write ABOUT this post, I bought one of those cangas in Rio (guarantee you’ve seen the one I bought) it has the many different colors and the Cristo Redentor statue, anyway, I felt like that totally gave me away as a gringa! Glad to know that only my “diaper” swimsuit gives me away! :)

        Reply
    • Eva
      Eva says:

      Weird, I´m American (and my family lives in Minnesota) and I definitely always say sneakers, as does everyone I know!

      Reply
      • susan
        susan says:

        Really?? I’ve never actually really heard anyone say sneakers. I thought that was just something foreigners said.. Everyone I know calls them tennis shoes :) or tenis (like tenees). I guess maybe it’s like the pop vs soda difference that we have here in the States. Nebraskans that I know call it pop, East coasters call it soda..

        Reply
  6. Luciana Bordallo Misura
    Luciana Bordallo Misura says:

    Brazilian (carioca!) married to a gringo here (living in the US for the past 10 years) and we definitely doesn’t use “gringo” meaning anything bad. When my American husband (boyfriend at the time) was living in Brazil I told him that many times, and I mean it. In Spanish gringo might have a bad meaning, but not in Portuguese. It’s just a fun way of saying “foreigner”. I would not be offended if anyone called my kids gringuinhos ;-)

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      Hi Luciana! Thanks for dropping by :)

      I think “gringo” is a really interesting word – I don’t think everyone has the same meaning for it. When people tell me they don’t mean anything bad, I really do believe them. But I also think that there are some other people who do mean it in a bad way. Sadly every country has its share of xenophobes, and I’ve had the misfortune to meet a couple here in Rio – when they say gringo it sounds like a dirty word.

      I’ve just been looking at your blog – I would only call your kids gringuinhos if we can agree first that gringuinhos means “super-cute”! :D

      And wow! Your blog goes back to 2001! Amazing! Parabéns!

      Reply
  7. BrazilianSoul
    BrazilianSoul says:

    “But maybe you don’t want to look like a local! We saw a couple of guys at the beach yesterday who were wearing trainers, sitting on towels, drinking from 2 litre bottles of water and (bonus points!) wearing $100 fancy headphones. But they seemed to be enjoying themselves and probably didn’t care that they looked ridiculous”

    So you are saying that the “Brazilian way” is better? Wow, that’s what I call cultural assimilation. I wonder if you would change your perception about what they did being “ridiculous” after a couple years living in Europe again. BTW, I have always thought that cangas are a girls thing. If I ever go to the beach wearing a canga I will definitely be kicked to death by my friends and rejected by parents and girlfriend forever. But probably the people you hang out with must be more open minded LOL.

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      Hi again Brazilians Soul – not sure if you’re reading any of my responses or just having your say and moving on, but anyway, to answer your question, Yes, I am saying the Brazilian way (when it comes to having a nice day at the beach) is better. I guess 2.5 years in Brazil will do that to (some) people.

      I will always think that people wearing $100 headphones on the beach look ridiculous – that is independent of location or culture.

      You misunderstand my use of canga. You think I wear it? Ha ha! No, I don’t think so, not in this lifetime! I don’t wear my towel either – I lie on the thing to keep the sand off my back! :D What do you do when you go to the beach? Lie directly on the sand? Heh heh… ;)

      Reply
  8. BrazilianSoul
    BrazilianSoul says:

    yeah, I’m reading all your replies. This blog is so cool btw.
    Oh, and thank God you are not wearing those cangas! When we go the beach we take with us those beach airmchairs, but sometimes I just sit on my girlfriend’s canga. It depends on how much time we will stay over there. But I want to go to the beach wearing a club med towel just to impress the locals, it is a 2013 plan.

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      Ah glad you like the blog – when I haven’t posted in a while, I put the ‘slider’ mechanism on random so some of the older posts come up.

      I think it’s only OK to wear a canga if you’re in somewhere like Fiji! :) The beach chairs – of course, I had forgotten about them. When I first got here I wasn’t too sure about them, but now I like to get the beach chair and umbrella – for a few Reais per day it is a great deal!

      Reply
  9. Karin
    Karin says:

    I’m a little late, but these are good tips, Tom! I actually met a Scottish guy in Spain who had been to Rio once and told me that he exchanged the bottle of water for a newspaper under the armpit in order not to get robbed. haha might work.

    And as for the cangas, the one you put to illustrate the post will probably give you away, too – too touristicky!

    Reply
  10. Livia loureiro🇧🇷
    Livia loureiro🇧🇷 says:

    I’m half Brazilian and half Finnish, I live in Finland. In my school I’m known for being the Brazilian kid. I just went to Brazil in a long time and I realised how little I know about the Brazilian culture. My cousins were calling me gringa all the time and I already know that its not meant to be offensive in Portuguese but it still hurt because I was really proud of the Brazilian culture and I felt like I was a part of it even thought I lived in Finland. I started to also almost get insicure about my ethnicity. But this helped a bit because I already knew alot and it made me feel like I’m actually from Brazil Thank you so much 🫶🏻👽

    Reply
    • tomlemes
      tomlemes says:

      Thanks Livia! I’m glad reading about all the gringo ‘tells’ made you feel better! I know a bit about how you feel – when I go back to the UK nowadays, I realise how long I’ve been away (almost 15 years) and how so many things have changed (or that I have just forgotten!). I genuinely feel a bit out of place there nowadays, even though I enjoy being back (apart from the weather of course – ha ha!).

      Reply

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