The ‘Surreal’
The prices of goods and services in Rio are undeniably high. It doesn’t matter whether you’re eating in a restaurant, buying clothes or looking to rent an apartment – the prices are often wince-inducing. And when prices are high enough to make rich holidaymakers and expats gasp, imagine how the locals must feel.
Last year’s protests were a graphic illustration of just how sensitive Brazilians are to these high prices – many people have been pushed to the limit of what they can afford, yet feel that the standards of these goods and services are not good enough. In short, they’re not getting value for money.
Factor in further issues such as inflation (currently around 6%), overspend on the ‘megaprojects’ (World Cup and Olympics) and gentrification of what were traditionally the cheaper parts of town and you get an idea of why there is a general feeling of frustration among many Rio residents.
Well, hard times drive change and it seems that all this dissatisfaction has given birth to an alternative currency. No, not the Bitcoin. Meet the $urreal!
Brazil’s newest currency was the brainchild of web-designer, Toinho Castro. Castro proposed the idea in a comment added to a recent article, saying that a ‘Surreal’ would have more relevance to the reality of people living in Rio today. Journalist Patrícia Kalil read that comment and was inspired to create a design for the notes – the idea to include Salvador Dalí came to her immediately and within 15 minutes of opening Photoshop, the currency was born.
Clearly Castro and Kalil have hit a nerve here – the Facebook page, created just a week ago, already has 150,000 likes! On that page they highlight prices of items in Rio that they feel are truly surreal – a club/party which is charging an entrance fee of R$360 (US $150), a small draft beer at Belmonte for R$7.15 (US $3).
But this isn’t just a bunch of people complaining and wringing their hands. These guys are also promoting things that they describe as “BBB – Bom, Bonito e Barato” (Good, Beautiful and Cheap). One post that caught my eye, and which I wholeheartedly support, is concept of ‘Farofeiro Chic’ when going to the beach (explanation of farofeiro here).
Suggestions include taking your own beach chairs, umbrellas, food and drinks. People usually use the term farofeiro in a negative way (apparently there is some shame involved in having to bring your own food to the beach to save money), but as the following picture shows, this can be a vast improvement on the traditional alternative:
Some sparkling wine and a little cheese. Makes a nice change from a soggy esfiha! Image taken from Rio $urreal Facebook page.
The final item on their suggested beach check-list is a laugh for your friend that mockingly calls you a “farofeiro” because you’ll know that the ‘farofa’ is delicious and that it is he who is missing out! Well said!
Marvellous stuff! When I was in Rio friends were horrified when I suggested taking a picnic to Ipanema and thought it was a bit too farofeiro. Despite my arguments in favour of nice blankets, Bedouin-style if you will, great grub (home-made gastro Sarneys – that word again – fizz, fruits and a frisbee) the offer was ceremoniously rejected as being a bit infra dig. Let’s hope the Favela Chic/Festas Farofeiros idea takes root at last :)
*PICNIC NOT PANIC!* – really should proof before posting ;)
Yeah, I’m a proud farofeiro – we once bought a couple of bottles of decent sparkling wine and a bag of ice – chilled bubbles beat a latão of Skol anyday!
p.s. Fixed your picnic-panic :)
Haha – thanks for that. My fingers danced over the latãos of Skol in the chiller cabinet this evening….and I just couldn’t bring myself to pick one up. Unpleasant memories of the corner ship on Royal Mint St…..Can’t bring myself to eat corações with any pleasure either!
Great article. I just moved to Brazil from Mexico 2 weeks ago. I live in MG. I plan to see Rio for a weekend but am worried about the prices. Even here, in this tiny town called Timóteo, I have been shocked by some prices. My Mexican pesos in Mexico went a lot farther than my Brazilian reais for food and bus transportation. I haven’t found anything that “is such a good deal”— well actually, meat is a surprisingly good deal. Everything else costs the same as in the United States even though it’s made here. It’s nuts! I try to think about how an average family, or a humble family, survive. What do they eat? Just beans, rice, and meat? That’s pretty good, but what about vegetables? Oh, man! And school supplies are crazy expensive!
Hi Ana! I’ve seen it a few times now – that look on people’s faces when they first see the prices! I also often wonder about how the poorest survive in Rio – it must be really hard. Food-wise, I think you’re right – mostly rice and beans with a little fish/chicken/meat. The Prato Feito deals can be pretty good.
I know no one believes that poverty exists in the UK, but a lot of people back there have found that recent tough times have forced them to learn more about how to reduce food costs. This website, setup by someone who could only afford to spend £10 (R$40) on food per week, is really inspiring: http://agirlcalledjack.com/
Good article tom. I know someone who worked in rio at about 92/93 that had to change her salery into USD because of Rios inflation. Just having a small amount of reals for the day. If you reserved a restaurant you had to reserve the price that day.
Oh man! Those days of hyperinflation must have been awful. I don’t know if it’s true or just a myth, but I heard that the lack of prices on goods in many shops is a hangover from those days – the prices changed so quickly that it wasn’t worth putting price tags on!
Great article!!! You did a nice review of what is going on in Rio when talking about the surreal cost of living!! I remember when I was a child around the 80’s everyone used to take their own food and no one felt shame for that. And then in the 90’s this expression farofeiro started to be popular. Well in my opinion is better to be called farofeiro then to spend those surreais! Have a nice weekend!!!
Hi Cristina! Sorry it took me so long to reply – I’m with you on the farofeiro thing. If I had the time I would also make my own lunches to take to work – cheaper, more nutritious and more tasty too! :)
Being that the term salary derives from salt then the Brazilian expression “tá salgado” designating something expensive is indeed very suitable to their country these days. I think the Ordem e Progresso on the flag should be replaced by sodium and chloride.
Regarding picnics on the beach perhaps if Europeans in Rio made a habit of it the stigma behind the whole thing would simmer down (as was – unfortunately – the case with Havianas). The picnic thing would be good though; just don´t let me catch a European introducing marmite during these outings (senão você já sabe Tom). http://s2.glbimg.com/HLdvKk_se6VLuCxoj_7v-feMhjyfiSjLGg6ZY0D5By1WPq_NRqtKEtkHj5bRVwvJ/s.glbimg.com/jo/g1/f/original/2012/10/09/302141_292692604168593_684985875_n.jpg
Ha ha! One day the whole of Rio will sit together on their beach towels, wearing havaianas and enjoying cucumber and Marmite sandwiches. You may say I’m a dreamer, but I’m not the only one… (actually I probably am the only one).
Ouch sounds like Rio is off limits until Sept 2016.
I think the days of hyper-inflation are well behind Brazil but the memories are recent enough that the Government will act if signs of real over heating in the economy are there.
The problem is that what is happening in Rio is not happening all over the country. A World Cup followed two years later by the Olympics two years later is unheard of and that brings with it an incredible surge in interest and demand while supply is unable to grow quick enough – so speculative bubbles are natural until Sept 2016.
E.g. Airline ticket prices during the World Cup.
Let’s hope the local government can work with the national Government to alleviate the pressure by being creative and allow new supply or related supply into the market.
E.g. Allowing foreign airlines to open new routes.
“Let’s hope the local government can work with the national Government to alleviate the pressure by being creative and allow new supply or related supply into the market.
This is the only kind of creativity displayed by the government so far, and as long as the dynamic duo of dumb is in charge (Dilma Rousseff, Guido Mantega) probably the only one we´ll see.
http://mansueto.wordpress.com/2013/01/08/sobre-truques-fiscais-e-a-contabilidade-criativa/