Fruits in Brazil: Sapoti and Jenipapo
One of the most exciting aspects of Brazilian food is the wide range of little known fruit. From the moment I first crossed into Brazil from Colombia, I encountered strange fruits and berries that I had never seen or even heard of before. Words like Bacurí, Muricí and Cupuaçú jumbled about in my head after a visit to a market in Manaus. Although it’s not quite so easy to get hold of the exotic Amazonian fruits here in Rio, they do show up from time to time in the street markets and whenever I see something new, I try it.
I visit Rio’s street markets at least twice a week and there is almost always this one stall, run by a rather grumpy old guy, which has the weird items. A few days ago I visited the grumpy stall and picked up two fruits that are pretty interesting: Sapoti and Jenipapo.
Sapoti (aka Sapodilla)
For all I know, I have been walking past these Sapoti (sounds like ‘sappo-chee’) fruit for years without noticing them and you can hardly blame me can you? As fruit go, these dull brown, tennis-ball sized spheres don’t exactly jump out and say ‘eat me!’ do they?
Better known as Sapodilla or Níspero in their native range of Southern Mexico and Central America, Sapoti (Manilkara zapota) grow on large, evergreen trees. The ripe fruit are firm and when cut open release a delicious sweet fragrance.
The fruit’s flesh is a light brown-orange colour with that same grainy texture you get with pears. When ripe, the fruit is very sweet and has a flavour a bit like toffee or caramel; unripe fruit are hard and full of a substance called saponin which makes them really bitter.
Summary: All in all, this is a pretty tasty fruit. However, it is very sweet and Mrs Eat Rio suggested that she would like to try it with a squeeze of lime to balance out all that sugar. They say that sapoti had already reached Brazil by the time the European explorers arrived, but it was also later taken over to India and other parts of Asia where it is variously known as chikoo, sobeda and lamoot. Knowing how much of a sweet tooth Indians have, I can imagine it is very popular over there!
Jenipapo
Jenipapo (Genipa americana) is a strange fruit. A little smaller than a tennis ball, the fruit grow on a tree that is found throughout the Atlantic and Amazon forests. Whenever I’ve seen jenipapo here in Rio, the fruits have been brown and a bit saggy, rather like dried figs. They have a very strong fragrance, also quite similar to dried figs or overripe bananas.
I bought the jenipapo fruit in the photo above just before we jetted off on holiday and sadly didn’t have time to do much with them, but it seems that these pungent fruit are commonly made into jellies, compotes and liqueurs. They are said to be rich in calcium, vitamins B1, B2, B5, C and work as an appetite stimulant (not sure I’ll ever need an appetite stimulant!). When I saw them at the market this week, they were even more saggy and squishy than usual and didn’t look very appetising when I cut them open:
Past their best? Next time I find jenipapo looking a bit less brown and mushy, I’ll be trying to make them into a liqueur. If it turns out well, I’ll post the steps.
But jenipapo has another use. The word jenipapo itself derives from the indigenous Tupi language meaning ‘fruit that can be used to paint’ and that pretty much sums it up. Indigenous peoples across the Amazon region use jenipapo juice to paint their bodies. The seeds and juice are scooped out of the middle of a fresh, green fruit, mixed with water and boiled until the juice turns black. This black paint is then applied to the skin using brushes or thin sticks.
Once extracted, the jenipapo paint is a deep blue-black colour. Image source
Summary: Jenipapo has a strange flavour like a sweet, pungent, overripe fruit. It may be that it’s nicer when they’re less old and squishy, but going by the fruit that I’ve found here in Rio, I wouldn’t recommend eating it raw. As I mentioned above, the fruit can be steeped in alcohol to make a sweet liqueur – I’ll let you know if that works out well. A word of warning if you find some fresh jenipapo and feel like trying the skin-painting method: the dye is like henna – any markings will stay on your skin for 2 weeks or more!
For more recipes using fruits that are even considered exotic in Brazil, in spite of being native to said country, look below (select the fruit on the left hand side and once entering find recipes and further info at the bottom of the page).
http://www.cerratinga.org.br/
Another interesting site: good peppers and jams.
http://www.cornucopia.net.br
One product though I do not like as it is chutney inspired; but Brits in Brazil may find it quite good.
http://cornucopia.net.br/produto/geleia-gourmet-manga/
Btw I tried Genipapo Liqueur the other day: good.
I love that Cerratinga site – nice one Gritty! I’m disappointed to hear you’re not a fan of chutney though – the mix of sweet and sour is great – especially, as in the case of that mango chutney, when it incorporates some feisty spice too.
I’ve had tasty raw jenipapo in Bahia. Sapoti in Mexico is called chicozapote.
Hi Natasha! So the jenipapo was just peeled and cut into chunks? Was it all brown and squishy or fresher and firmer? I’m struggling to believe that those brown, mushy things that I had were in prime condition…
Off topic … Marmite and Haggis: A Love Story
http://m.youtube.com/results?q=reunited&sm=12
Both jenipapo pix show the fruit after many days off the tree. For fresh jenipapo, see here and here.
I’ve been addicted to Jenipapo juice from my local juice bar here in Salvador. Happy to have come across page as I was seeking some info about it! I think it’s the vitamins and iron from it that my body craves perhaps more than the taste (which is actually quite pleasant as a juice!) Thanks for the info! Kai
Hey Kai! Great to hear from you and thanks for the tip on jenipapo juice. I’m racking my brains and I’m not sure if I’ve ever had it as a juice. I’ll have to see if they have it in my local casa de suco. I’m hoping to make it up to Salvador later this year – if you’re still up there it would be great to meet up. Grab a jenipapo juice! :D
Excellent article guys, really great content (hilarious result of this Genipapo fruit, I remember doing the same thing in Manaus, kept it for one too many days… did the liquor ever come to anything?)
Cheers! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your comment Joel – I’m a big fan of your work!! Mark and I both did some work for Chowzter (which became Foodie Hub and then XtremeFoodies) a few years ago, so we actually have a minor connection from back in the day. Was very cool seeing your recent work here in Brazil!
Regarding the licor – it sure did come to something – check out the images below. Basic steps, peel fruit, remove seeds, cut into chunks, cook with water and plenty of sugar and a vanilla pod. After some time, allow to cool and add lots of alcohol (vodka, grain alcohol, etc), then allow it to steep for some months. Finally filter carefully. If you’ve done it well then it will be clear and the colour of honey. Mine was a bit cloudy, but still very tasty!