La Veronese and a different kind of pizza

La Veronese – looks aren’t everything!

One of the lessons I’ve learned on my travels is that some of the best places to eat look so unimpressive that you’d walk right by if you didn’t know better. Many people visiting Rio don’t know better and so they wander into the flashy places that look inviting and end up disappointed (and a lot lighter in the wallet). Just a couple of weeks ago I received an email from an exasperated tourist saying “I’ve wasted too much money and too many calories on mediocre meals in Rio. Please tell me there’s more than this!”.

Luckily for us (residents and visitors alike) there is more than this! Sometimes you just have to look past the ugly exteriors to find the best food. For example, my favourite bolinhos de bacalhau are served in a slightly shabby looking building in Lapa with frosted glass windows – not the most inviting scene for the uninitiated:

I think this shot makes it look pretty nice, but all the same, I’m not surprised that many tourists walk straight past this place.

Although Rio isn’t on the same scale as London, New York or São Paulo, I’m happy to say that after 5 years there are still plenty of places that I have yet to discover/visit. Just a couple of days ago Mrs Eat Rio introduced me to La Veronese (pictured at the top of the post) – an unprepossessing place I’m sure you’ll agree. Yet ever since our visit I’ve been obsessing about this place and planning my next visit eagerly.

I’m not 100% what to call La Veronese – it’s not really a restaurant and snack bar doesn’t really do it justice. Perhaps it counts as a bakery? Hopefully the photo tells you all you need to know – it’s a simple place with a long counter and it specialises in Italian food. The address is Rua Visconde de Pirajá, 29 – just half a block from Praça General Osório in Ipanema.

And what is it that’s behind all this obsession I’ve been feeling? Let me show you:

Perhaps not one for the purists, but seriously, try it before you knock it!

We visited quite early in the morning and I was in typically grumpy mood as Mrs Eat Rio enthused about these mini pizzas. But once I took a bite my grumpiness vanished in a puff of soft, fluffy dough, simple tomato sauce with fresh herbs and seriously garlicky topping.

Now if you’re one of those pizza bores who will only accept something that has been made to the strictest standards set out in Naples then this probably isn’t for you. Similarly, if you have a very definite idea of what a pizza should be like (New York style, Chicago style, etc), then again, this won’t float your boat. But if you’re just into delicious combinations of bread, cheese and tomatoes then I highly recommend you get involved.

This is the one Mrs Eat Rio ate. These are light enough and small enough that eating 2 would not be remotely greedy. I’m planning to eat at least that number on my next visit.

My photos probably don’t give you a good sense of scale – these things are the size of a side plate and light enough that there would be no shame in eating 2 (just making my excuses in advance). And while these pizzas may not reach the heights of artistry and sophistication of the delicious delights served at Ferro e Farinha, I for one am happy to live in a world with room for all styles (just as long as they’re tasty!).

-And while we’re on the subject of unconventional pizza, I’ll be visiting Buenos Aires with my mum next week. We’ll definitely be trying the Fugazetta at La Mezzetta – check out this bad boy!

Mmmmm, cheesy, oniony, unconventional pizza…