rocinha-favela

Favela Spirit

 

Sure local government should do these things, but when they don’t, we do it ourselves.

-Favela resident

 

Favelas are a touchy subject here in Brazil. I think I covered this subject in my previous post (What’s wrong with favelas?), so I’ll just add a minimal pre-emptive clarification: I don’t think favelas are fun or cool, but I do think they are legitimately interesting.

Back in Britain it is common to hear people lament the decline of “community spirit”. Of course there are plenty of great community projects and kind, helpful people, but as a general trend, people have become less sociable with their neighbours over the last 50 or so years.

Many people in London (and other large cities I’m sure) hardly speak to the people who live next door or across the hallway. It’s not uncommon to hear of people dying alone in their apartments and only being discovered weeks later when neighbours notice the smell.

I used to think that this phenomenon of people closing themselves off from their neighbours was caused by the population movement from small towns and villages into large cities and conurbations. It seems a logical reaction to a reduction in living space: people put up metaphorical walls to counter the fact that they are living in such close proximity to each other. But if that were true, how could you explain favelas?

 

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Just a small section of Rocinha, Rio’s largest favela.

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Igor ‘SRC’ Nunes

A couple of weeks ago, Mrs Eat Rio and I did our own little Comida di Buteco crawl (it’s like a pub crawl but with added stuffing your face). As we strolled out of Antigamente, a nice little bar on Rua do Ouvidor, I looked up and saw a view that looked photo-worthy.

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Rua do Ouvidor is a narrow street running through Centro. Although the street itself is ancient, many of the buildings that now line it are quite ugly recent.

 

I don’t think it’s a masterpiece or anything, but I like the way the line of the street leads up to the space between the buildings. This was taken on my phone (hence the grainy appearance) so it wasn’t until I got it back to the computer that I noticed a cheeky little character looking back at me.

That little yellow bird is wearing a cap which says “SRC” on it. Great, I thought, I’ll Google that and find out who did this. Problem: On the internet, SRC is a very common abbreviation of “source” as well as an acronym for about a million different organisations.

The next day I was walking down a street in Tijuca and what did I see?

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bamboo-in-the-rain

Photo Post: Rain in Rio

My first job interview in Rio went pretty well. We spent about 10 minutes talking about what the new role would be, then another 20 minutes talking about my skills and past work experience. Then, at the end, one of the two interviewers turned to me with a quizzical look on his face and asked: “Just one thing – why would you leave a job like that in London to come to Rio?“. The way he asked the question made it clear that he thought I was crazy!

Conversely, I know that many Brazilians who move to London are asked by incredulous locals “Why would you leave sunny Brazil to come to this miserable place?”. I guess next door’s chicken is always fatter, right?

Well you know what? You might not see it on the postcards, but it rains a lot in Rio. In fact it rains more in Rio than it does in London!

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It has rained pretty much non-stop every single time I’ve left the city of Rio to explore other parts of Rio state. This was a nice bamboo sprout I saw in Petrópolis.

 

I imagine that Londoners will be reading this and thinking “Oh sure, you get more actual rain in Rio because of those crazy tropical storms, but I bet we (Londoners) have more rainy days than Rio”. Well that’s where you’re wrong:

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altinha

Futevôlei: Is this why Brazil is better than England at football?

I’ll be honest from the start, I like football a lot – I used to play a bit and I think it’s a great game. I’m not obsessed with football though; I don’t love it. If anything, my interest in the game has faded a bit over the last 15 years. I certainly don’t think football is a matter of life or death (or even more important than that), so if you’re looking for insightful and up-to-date football analysis, you should probably check out some proper blogs.

Did anyone stick around for the second paragraph? OK, so now that we’ve established that I’m no expert on the subject, let’s talk football! I have a premise so deeply ingrained in my footballing psyche that I doubt I’ll ever be able to shake it: Brazil are better than England. For most of my life this had been an indisputable fact. The fact that this is now a matter for some debate (sadly due to a slump in Brazil’s form rather than a surge in England’s) is something I still struggle to get my head around.

But why are (were?) they so much better than us?

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Brazilians play a lot of football. But then so do the English!

 

On my first trip to the beach in Rio I saw something that made me go “Ah! So that’s why they’re so good!”:

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Photo Post: Vhils in Rio

A couple of weeks ago I was getting off the Metro station in Copacabana. I was in a big hurry because I was running late, but just happened to look up for a moment and saw something pretty amazing.

Vhils-Copacabana

 

This is the work of Portuguese artist Alexadre Farto, AKA Vhils. Apparently his process involves first painting an image onto a wall, then using drills, chisels and other tools to chip away at the painting to leave the final image.

Here’s a close-up:

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