Reasons to visit Bahia #2 & 3: People and Food

When we arrived in Salvador, it became apparent that Mrs Eat Rio had been harbouring a little obsession. An obsession that  went by the name of Sorriso da Dadá. When you hear a Brazilian saying these words it sounds like ‘so-HEE-zo dadaDA’ – try saying it out loud, it’s pretty weird. On the third time I heard her mention it to someone, I demanded to know what this ‘dadada’ thing was all about.

The People of Bahia

It turns out that it is an amazing restaurant run a lovely woman named Dadá. The full name means Smile of Dadá and when we met her we found out why this is such a good name – she smiles plenty!

Dadá – amazing woman, amazing food!

We had quite a bit of trouble finding Dadá’s place. We had been driving all day and everyone was tired, hungry and more than a little irritable – we then ended up driving around and around the area, knowing we were in the right place, but somehow unable to find the exact spot. Tempers frayed and at one point we contemplated giving up and going back to the hotel.

Finally we found it! We had in fact arrived at Dadá’s second establishment (called simply Restaurante da Dadá) and it looked very busy. Our relief at finding the place turned quickly to despair as a waiter told us that the restaurant was closed for the night as Dadá was holding a birthday party for her daughter Rafaela. Maybe Dadá saw the looks on our faces, because just as we were leaving, she came over and invited us to join the party!

Wow, how is that for generosity? What a woman! She moved things around for us, sat us down and told us to fica vontade (make yourself at home). She was a very spiritual woman and told us that this was a family party and that we should feel like part of her family. The waiters brought us amazing caipirinhas (Acerola and pineapple since you ask) and a whole host of delicious Baiano food.

Typical food from Bahia: (clockwise, from the front), farofa de dendê; a black-eyed bean stew; Carurú (a stew of okra, nuts and dendê); vatapá (a rich paste/stew made from dried shrimp, nuts, bread, coconut, dendê oil); coconut rice and (centre) a rich, tangy chicken stew called Xinxin de Galinha. Thank you Dadá!

Dadá was an incredibly warm and generous host and her enthusiastic yet easygoing kindness epitomised the Baianos (people of Bahia).

Food

I don’t pretend of be an expert in the food of Bahia, but what I can tell you is that there is some really good stuff to be had. If you’re talking Baiano food then you have to mention Moqueca – a rich seafood stew flavoured with coconut milk and dendê (palm) oil.

A really special Moqueca from a place just outside Salvador called Paraíso Tropical (sadly now closed). Unusually they used whole Dendê fruit, instead of just adding the oil. This was one of the best I’ve had – tangy, creamy, delicious.

Crabs and seafood are a major feature of Baiano food and a few days after that amazing Moqueca you see above, we found ourselves in more humble surroundings. A remote beach a couple of hours walk out of the seaside town of Itacaré. As lunchtime approached, a guy came and asked us if we’d be interested in a fish:

Freshly caught that morning, these fish were way too good to pass up. The guy disappeared off to a simple covered barraca (like a tent without walls) and called us when it was ready.

I won’t show you the finished article – whole, roasted fish rarely looks as good as it tastes and the photo doesn’t do it justice. But let me tell you, this was one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten. The guy roasted the fish over coals and flavoured it simply with olive oil, garlic and a dash of soy sauce and served it up with rice, tomatoes and farofa. It was sublime.

OK, we ate lots of other good food, but for now I’m going to show you just one more moqueca. This one was served up with something called Pirão, a thick sludge made from fish juices and thickened with mandioca flour. I had never been hugely impressed with Pirão before, but this one was totally delicious.

Crunchy, buttery farofa with firm, succulent fish, plump shrimps and a tangy, gooey pirão. We sat outside to eat this as we watched the beach life of Itacaré in full swing.

Did I mention the hot sauce…?